| Incubation by Sean Natural Incubation:
Although it is possible to incubate quail eggs under a broody hen or foster bird, it is possible for the hen to sit on the fertile eggs, try creating the housing of the bird’s home to its natural surrounding, thus boosting the maternal instincts of the hen. The hen will only leave the eggs to relieve herself or to eat and drink. The hen will also keep rotating the eggs.
Before Incubation:
Eggs should be collected twice daily and more frequently in hot weather. Special care must be taken in collecting and handling quail eggs for they are thin-shelled, break more easily than chicken eggs. Eggs should be stored large end up and they should not be held for more than 7 days before being placed in the incubator. Set only clean eggs. Eggs to be incubated should not be washed; if cleaning is required, it should be done with a clean abrasive or sandpaper. The egg is mostly water and quail egg dehydrates more rapidly. Eggs stored in PVC bags may be stored for a longer period of time (14-21 days) and the hatch will be higher than from unpackaged eggs stored as described above.
Artificial Incubation:
The incubator should have a fan to provide adequate air circulation because the developing embryos use oxygen and give off carbon dioxide and heat. Turning regularly is important in early incubation to prevent the embryos from sticking to the shell membrane. Lack of turning during the first 3 to 4 days will produce some malformed embryos as well as other minor defects. Humidity is important too! But adding a cup of water in the incubator can have humidity. The incubation period of quails is about 17-18 days, and the temperatures is about 38 degree Celsius to 37, not more then 39 degree Celsius or risk the eggs being cooked or killing the delicate eggs. The eggs should be turned at least 5 times a day.
Newly hatched chicks have weak limbs, therefore, they tend to sprawl on the tray when hatched, too long of this would cause the chick to develop “splayed legs” in which the legs are splay or split out, thus, unable to stand up or support the chick. To prevent this, it can be done but place chicks under paper towels or towel, which allow the chick to grip easily on the floor, newspaper sheets are not advisable. The chicks are hatched, capable to eat without parents help within few hours, sprinkling food on ground encourages the chicks to eat and egg food are best to be given at a young age as it is best for growing chicks. Water should be provided in a shallow dish, with marbles or pebbles, so as to prevent the chicks from drowning in the water.
Brooding:
Chicks need extra heat to keep them warm until they are feathered. In the “wild”, the parents would probably keep the chicks underneath the wings or bodies to keep them warm. A brooder can do this too. The openings in the wire floor should be covered with a rough-surfaced paper during the first week to avoid damage to feet and legs. The wire sides of the brooder must be closed with either fine mesh or paper to prevent the baby quails from escaping. The temperature of the brooder should be around 35 degrees Celsius and decrease it when the chicks are feathered. The best way to tell whether the chicks are getting the right temperature is by observing the chicks. If they crowd near the bulb, they are too cold and require warming up the place, if they stay away from the bulb; they are too warm or hot and lowering the temperature of the incubator is needed. After they are fully feathered, they can be allowed to be removed from the brooder.
My INCUBATOR
My incubator consists of a cardboard box. Inside contains a folded wire mesh, and under the wire mesh, I will put a water dish (probably a cake tin or Tupperware or something else to contain the water for humidity).
One or two orange light bulbs will be fitted on both sides of the incubator, depending on the heat. If it is too cold, two light bulbs are required; if it is warmer, then one will do. Ventilation holes would be poked through the cardboard and the eggs would be placed on the wire mesh with the thermometer. We will do trial runs until the incubator’s temperature suit the eggs (37 degrees Celsius plus). As for the brooder, I will take out the wire mesh and the water dish under it and replace it with some paper towel. Then, I will lower the thermometer and take the temperature reading below for the growing chicks. (35 degrees Celsius)
-The End- |